Well, I will be headed to S'toon in the next couple of weeks and I will keep all this info in mind. (Another question) when you find a good trout hole is it best to anchor before putting out your downrigger or can you drift with these things. If so, do the electric ones' make dept adjustment while drifting?
Hmm funny I have ran nothing but high end graphite rods for the last 10 years or so and sure don't seem to have any issues.. Like I said I do stay away from the stiff power poles,, it's all in the feel and the fight for me.. I am even looking for the right fly rod set up to make up a small mooching set up to enhance the feel even more. I have been running high end graphite mooching rods out on the chuck for numerous years now with no issues either,, not sure where the deal is that you can't run them on downriggers,, first I have heard of it..
As Walleye's said never seen a downrigger used drifting as you need a positive speed over water before you let it down.
When I first started to consider downriggers I did a fair bit of research into it. At the time I was looking for a high end graphite rod that I could use for downriggers and big pike. I spoke with Fenwick, St. Croix, G Loomis, Shimano, Daiwa, Scotty, and Walker reps and they all said the same thing to me at the time. They are two completely different techniques that require two completely different rods. They said the high end graphite rods were not made to handle to constant bend and load of downrigger use and that one needed glass or composite rods for the down riggers. This makes sense to me now, I have a garage full of high end graphite hockey sticks that look pristine except for the fact that my boys say they have "Whipped out" or to put it another way, while the high end graphite stick started out with a 100 flex they were now only 75 flex sticks. Just to make sure things have not changed in the last couple of years I called Fenwick and spoke to Sterling there. He said they do not recommend their rods for downrigger use the one exception being the Canadian Methods downrigger rod (CMT902DR) which is a composite rod. He did say that one could use their rods anyway one wanted but they would definably not recommend it.
you can get into the smaller electrics like I have for around $500.00 a unit
Walleyes thanx for all your help, this is the one (1099 model) I will buy along with the swivel and tip up mount. I have a med action rod and might pic up a light one just for using the downrigger. I love the taste of lakers and rainbows and would rather catch them than any other lake fish. Wallys are good but trout has always been my favourite fish dish. Do you think I need to change my line, currently using 20lb test braided nylon. Do you find the bite to be slower in July and August or does it matter with the lakers because they are down deep in their comfort zone. I have yet to hit them right after the ice is out but plan to make that a prioriety next spring. We were lucky to catch a few this year at 20/30 ft without any heavy gear. Thanx again walleyes you are a GREAT resource on here and I appreciate your feedback. Will look forward to that trip next year.
Hey Walleyes, I'm now the proud owner of a Scotty 1099 downrigger. They talked me into a few other toys for the ball which I'm sure I'll have a few questions about later on. The 1099 comes with the flip-up base. I bought the swivel base too, not really knowing if I can use both of them. (have 30 days to return it) The guys at Cabelas in S'toon where not very helpfull and couldn't answer all of my questions because they have never owned or used a downrigger. I bought another rod to, but will have to look at the name and model when I go to the garage. It's one that a customer standing beside me (who was looking at rods too) suggested for a downrigger. He seemed to know more about them then the salesman. Man, where do they find these morons that don't have a clue about the product they are trying to sell. My slaesman had to go ask one of the other guys or look on the computer to answer some of my questions.